Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram

Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram

Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram

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Turn signals, hazard and stop lights

Switch wires to the lamps, the flasher and the stop light switch.

Turn signals, hazard and stop lights
SIGNAL-STATSERIES 900STOP &TAILFLASHER15 A(X)TO BATTERY +RIGHT FRONTREDLEFT FRONTGREENBLUE (P)YELLOW (L)RIGHT REARBLACK · TO STOP LIGHT FILAMENTLEFT REARGREY · TO STOP LIGHT FILAMENTGREY/BLACKSTOP LIGHT SWITCHPOWERGROUND THROUGHTHE STRAPSIGNAL-STATSERIES 900FLASHER15 A(X)TO BATTERY +RIGHT FRONTRIGHT REARREDLEFT FRONTLEFT REARGREENBLUE (P)YELLOW (L)GROUND THROUGHTHE STRAP

Terminals and components · 9

  • Right turn
  • Left turn
  • Stop
  • Pilot (P)
  • Load (L)
  • Power (X)
  • Stop and grey

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from pages 2–3 of the Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Vehicle Lighting (Automotive) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Wiring Diagrams

Turn & hazard · 900, 901, 910 and 905

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Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram – Turn & hazard · 900, 901, 910 and 905
Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram – Turn & hazard · 902 and 903
Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900 Warning Switch Wiring Diagram – Hi/Lo beams

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

First, pick the right tab for your Truck-Lite Signal Stat 900. Models 900, 901, 910 and 905 use the variant with separate rear wires. On those, Black and Grey feed the rear stop light filaments, so the rear lamps work as both stop and turn lights, and Grey/black goes to the stop light switch. Models 902 and 903 use the simpler variant, where Red and Green feed both the front and rear turn lamps on their side. Only model 905 has the Hi/Lo beams tab with relay 129.

You will need a 3-terminal flasher and socket (not included with the switch), a 15 A fuse and holder, crimp splices or solder and heat shrink, electrical tape, a wire stripper, a test light or multimeter, and sandpaper or a scraper for the steering column. The switch has no specified wire gauge. Match the gauge of the vehicle's existing lighting circuits and never splice in a thinner wire. If your lamps are LED, get a solid-state flasher designed for LED loads.

Turn the ignition off before you start. Pull the flasher out of its socket and leave it out until all wiring is finished and checked. On a model 905, disconnect the battery ground cable before you touch the headlamp circuit. This is a 6, 12 or 24 V vehicle circuit, so you normally don't need a permit. Have an automotive electrician do the job if the vehicle is under warranty, subject to commercial inspection, or you are unsure how its lighting is wired.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Mount the switch on the steering column with the strap, anchors and clips. Scrape the paint off the column under the strap so the ground is bare metal to metal. The switch has no ground wire of its own, so the flashing and the pilot lights depend on this contact. Tighten the screws evenly.
  2. Install the 3-terminal flasher socket. Run the X terminal to the battery through the 15 A fuse. Use a line that is hot with the ignition off, or the hazard warning will not work with the engine stopped.
  3. Connect Yellow (L) to the flasher L terminal. This is the switch's flashing power. Connect Blue (P) to the flasher P terminal to drive the green and red pilot lights. Wagner and Tridon flashers label their terminals B for battery, L for load and E for pilot, so on those Blue goes to E.
  4. Cut and splice Red to the right front turn lamp and Green to the left front turn lamp. On models 902 and 903, these same wires also feed the right and left rear turn lamps.
  5. On models 900, 901, 910 and 905, splice Black to the right rear stop light filament and Grey to the left rear stop light filament. The left and right rear lamps must be on separate circuits, never tied together. Leave the tail light circuit as it was.
  6. Connect Grey/black to one pole of the stop light switch and bring battery power to the other pole. If the poles are marked, Grey/black goes to the negative side.
  7. Tape the end of each unused wire separately so it cannot short.
  8. Model 905 only, with the battery ground cable still off: connect the White button lead to relay 129 terminal 85 and Purple headlamp power to terminal 30. Run White/green from terminal 87A to the low beams and Yellow/black from terminal 87 to the high beams. Bolt the relay's White lead to clean chassis metal for ground.
  9. Check every splice for bare copper and stray strands, compare each wire color against the diagram, then refit the flasher. On a 905, reconnect the battery ground cable last.

Testing and start-up

Turn the ignition on and move the handle in the direction of a turn. The front and rear lamps on that side should flash, and the green pilot light should flash with them. Put the handle back in neutral and the signal should stop. Press the brake pedal: both rear stop lights should light steadily. During a turn, the rear lamp on the turning side should flash while the other one stays lit.

Next, turn the ignition off and pull the flare tab out. All the turn lamps and the red pilot light should flash. On a model 905, press the handle button: the headlamps should switch between low and high beams with each press.

To measure, use a test light or multimeter. The flasher X terminal should show full battery voltage with the ignition off, and the L terminal should pulse when you select a turn. Resistance between the switch housing and the battery negative post should be close to zero ohms.

Safety notes

  • Always protect the flasher feed with the 15 A fuse, mounted as close to the battery connection as you can. An unfused battery line can overheat and start a fire if it shorts.
  • The flasher feed stays hot with the key off. Treat it as live at all times and disconnect the battery before you rework it.
  • Keep wires away from the steering shaft, pedals, exhaust and sharp edges, and secure them so the moving column cannot pull on them.
  • Use only the correct pilot bulb: #51 for 6 volt, #53 for 12 volt and #356 for 24 volt service. Test a new bulb only after the switch is reassembled and grounded.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
Nothing works at all: no turn signals, no hazards, no pilot lights Poor ground at the mounting strap, blown 15 A fuse or no power at the flasher Remove the strap, scrape the column down to bare metal and refit it, or run a separate ground wire from under the anchor clip to the chassis. Check the fuse and confirm battery voltage at flasher terminal X.
Hazards flash but the turn signals don't Weak ground between the strap and the steering column, wrong wire colors or a short at a splice Remake the metal-to-metal contact under the strap. Recheck every wire color against the diagram and look for bare or touching conductors at each splice.
Pilot light on the switch stays on solid Blue (P) and Yellow (L) connected together Separate the two wires. Blue goes only to the flasher P terminal (E on Wagner/Tridon) and Yellow goes only to L.
Lamps flash but the green and red pilot lights never come on 2-terminal flasher with no P terminal, Blue not connected, burned-out pilot bulb or poor ground Fit a 3-terminal flasher with Blue on P. Check the bulb type (#51, #53 or #356 to match the system voltage) and the strap ground.
Hazards don't work with the engine off Flasher X fed from a circuit that is switched by the ignition With the key off, measure X to ground. If you don't read battery voltage, move the feed to an always-hot line through the 15 A fuse.
Both rear brake lamps come on or flash together when signaling Left and right rear lamps tied together on one circuit Separate the rear lamps: Black to the right rear stop filament only, Grey to the left rear stop filament only. Leave the tail light circuit separate.
Brake lights don't work after the installation Grey/black not on the stop light switch, or no power on the switch's other pole With the pedal released, confirm battery voltage on one pole. Press the pedal and confirm the voltage reaches the Grey/black pole.
LED lamps flash very fast, stay on or don't flash Standard flasher used with LED lamps Install a solid-state flasher designed for LED lighting.
Brand-new 6 V flasher does nothing Flasher damaged out of the box. 6 V flashers often break in shipping Try another flasher before you rewire anything. Some installers need two or three before finding a good one.
Vehicle has separate turn and hazard flashers and only one function works Original two-flasher system not adapted to the switch Jumper the two flasher power terminals, connect Yellow to one L terminal and run Blue to the P terminal of both flashers. Or reroute the system to use a single flasher.
Pilot lights don't work with a Wagner or Tridon flasher Blue connected to the wrong terminal, because these brands label terminals differently On these flashers, B is battery, L is load (Yellow) and E is pilot (Blue). Move Blue to E.
Model 905 button does nothing or one beam never lights Relay 129 not grounded, or leads on the wrong relay terminals Check that the relay White lead is bolted to clean chassis metal and that Purple on 30 has voltage. Confirm White is on 85, White/green on 87A and Yellow/black on 87.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


Which models does each diagram variant cover?
Models 900, 901, 910 and 905 share the same turn and hazard wiring, with separate rear wires: Black and Grey feed the rear stop light filaments and Grey/black goes to the stop light switch. Models 902 and 903 use a simpler layout where Red and Green feed both the front and rear turn lamps. Only model 905 adds the Hi/Lo beams circuit through relay 129. To choose the variant, look at the model number on your switch or packaging and count the wires coming out of it.

Is a flasher included with the Signal Stat 900 switch?
No, the switch doesn't come with a flasher or a flasher socket, so you have to buy them separately. Use a 3-terminal flasher: X takes fused battery power, L feeds the switch through the Yellow wire, and P drives the pilot lights through the Blue wire. Make sure it matches your system voltage. If your vehicle has LED lamps, the flasher must be a solid-state type designed for LED loads.

Can I use a 2-terminal flasher instead of a 3-terminal one?
Yes, the turn signals and hazards will work with a 2-terminal flasher, but you lose the pilot lights. Connect Yellow to the flasher L terminal and tape off the Blue wire, which has nowhere to connect. The green and red indicator lights on the switch will not light. If you want working pilot lights to confirm that the signals are flashing, use a 3-terminal flasher with Blue on P.

Does the switch work on 6, 12 and 24 volt vehicles?
Yes, the switch works on 6, 12 and 24 volt systems as long as the flasher and the pilot bulb match the system voltage. Use a #51 pilot bulb for 6 volt, #53 for 12 volt and #356 for 24 volt service. To change the bulb, remove the two screws and the top cover, pull the spring clip away from the handle and swap the bulb. Test the new bulb only after the switch is reassembled and grounded.

Can I install it on a positive ground vehicle?
Yes, positive ground doesn't affect this switch, and you install it exactly the same way as on a negative ground vehicle. The switch still grounds through its metal strap on the steering column, the flasher still takes fused battery power on X, and the wire colors connect to the same lamps. Just make sure the flasher you buy is suitable for your vehicle's voltage and electrical system.

Does the switch need a separate ground wire?
Normally no. The switch grounds through its mounting strap, so the strap must sit on bare metal with the paint scraped off the steering column underneath. On columns where a good metal-to-metal contact is hard to get, for example painted, coated or rubber-isolated columns, you can run a separate ground wire from under the anchor clip to the chassis. A solid ground matters because the flashing and the pilot lights both depend on it.

How do I wire it into a Painless Wiring harness that has separate turn and hazard flashers?
Disconnect the Painless flasher, put a jumper wire between its two slots and install a 3-terminal flasher. On that flasher, connect Blue to P for the pilot lights and Yellow to L for the load. X takes power from the harness Purple wire, number 952. With this setup, one flasher handles both the turn signals and the hazard warning, and the switch's indicator lights work normally.

How does the hazard flare work and cancel?
Put the handle in neutral and pull the flare tab out to turn the hazard flare on: all turn lamps and the red pilot light flash together. Because the flasher is fed from a line that is hot with the ignition off, the flare also works with the engine stopped. To cancel it, move the handle left or right and the tab releases by itself, then return the handle to neutral.

Are replacement parts available for the handle and mounting?
Yes, Truck-Lite sells the handle and mounting hardware separately, so you don't have to replace the whole switch. Part 9191 is the replacement handle with the Hi-Lo beam button used on the model 905. Part 9196 is the standard replacement handle for the other models. Part 9190 is the replacement mounting hardware kit, with the strap, clips and anchors that hold the switch on the column and provide its ground.

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