Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram

Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram

Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram

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L8148J connections

Thermostat, 24 V or millivoltage burner, circulator and power; below, the internal schematic in gray.

L8148J connections
THERMOSTAT24 VL8148JHIGHLIMITTRTHTHTRLOW VOLTAGE GAS VALVE(e.g., VR8300)L8148J INTERNAL SCHEMATICGL1L2TPZW1KTTV1K3BR1K2AUTOMANUALB3B2B1C1C21K1TVTC1C2CIRCULATORL1L2L1(HOT)L2GB1B2B3WZTPBRTHERMOSTAT24 VL8148JHIGHLIMITL8148J INTERNAL SCHEMATICGL1L2TPZW1KTTV1K3BR1K2AUTOMANUALB3B2B1C1C21K1TVTC1C2CIRCULATORL1L2L1(HOT)L2GB1B2B3PPPPTH2TH1MILLIVOLTAGE GAS VALVEPOWERPILEWZTPREMOVEDBRTHERMOSTAT24 VL8148JHIGHLIMITTRTHTHTRLOW VOLTAGE GAS VALVE(e.g., VR8300)L8148J INTERNAL SCHEMATICGL1L2TPZW1KTTV1K3BR1K2AUTOMANUALB3B2B1C1C21K1TVTWRBL6006LOW LIMITCONTROLLERC1C2CIRCULATORL1L2L1(HOT)L2GB1B2B3WZTPBR

Terminals and components · 8

  • Thermostat
  • Jumpers
  • High limit
  • Burner
  • Circulator
  • Power
  • Ground

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from page 11 of the Aquastat Relay L8148J manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Capacitors, Contactors & Relays (HVAC & Water Heating) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagrams

Complete · 24 V gas valve

1 / 5
Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram – Complete · 24 V gas valve
Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram – Complete · Millivoltage
Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram – Complete · With L6006 low limit
Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram – Zone valves
Aquastat Relay L8148J Wiring Diagram – R882C relays

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

Identify which drawing matches your Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148J system. Use the Complete tab for a single-zone boiler. Then pick the variant for your burner: 24 V gas valve if your gas valve has TR and TH terminals and runs on the control's transformer, Millivoltage if it is a Powerpile valve powered by a pilot generator (TH1, TH2 and PP terminals), or With L6006 low limit if you are adding a remote low limit controller to a 24 V gas valve system. Use the Zone valves tab if each zone has its own V8043F valve and thermostat. Use the R882C relays tab if each zone has its own circulator.

Gather a flat-blade screwdriver (not a push-type ratchet driver), wire strippers, a multimeter that reads AC volts, labels for tagging wires, and the heat-conductive compound if your immersion well is loose on the bulb. The terminals accept copper wire only and are wrap-around screw terminals. B1 is a 1/4 in. tab terminal. If you wire B1 with a tab connector, use 18 to 22 gauge wire with a fully insulated flag receptacle. The sources don't give a gauge for the other low-voltage terminals. Standard 18 AWG thermostat wire is common practice. Size the 120 V supply and circulator wiring to your circuit and local code.

This control is meant to be installed by a trained, experienced service technician. The boiler must have a pressure relief valve. Line-voltage work may need a permit, depending on where you live. If you are not comfortable working on 120 V boiler circuits and gas valves, hire a licensed professional.

Shut off power to the boiler at its disconnect and confirm with your meter that it is dead. If you are replacing an old control, tag every lead as you remove it, using the old control's cover insert as a guide.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Mount the control on the immersion well. Push the bulb all the way to the bottom of the well, keep the loop of capillary tubing away from all electrical parts, and tighten the well clamp screw. Use the case's knockouts for 1/2 in. conduit.
  2. Prepare each wire: strip 7/16 in. of insulation, wrap it at least three-quarters of the way around the screw, tighten until it is snug against the screw and contact plate, then tighten one-half turn more.
  3. Connect the case ground to the grounding screw provided. Do this before you connect any other conductor.
  4. Set the jumpers for your variant. For a 24 V gas valve, leave both the W–Z jumper and the TP–Z jumper in place. For a millivoltage valve, remove TP–Z and leave W–Z in place. For the L6006 low limit, remove W–Z and leave TP–Z in place. The low limit works with the 24 V (B1–B3) burner circuit only.
  5. Wire the burner circuit. For a 24 V gas valve, run B1 to TR and B3 to TH on the valve, and leave B2 empty. For a millivoltage valve, run B1 to TH1 and B2 to TH2, and connect the Powerpile generator to the two PP terminals on the valve. If the old control had a screw terminal for B1, push the supplied tab-to-screw adapter onto the B1 tab and reuse the old wire end.
  6. If you are adding the L6006, connect it as shown: W to W, R to Z, and B to the high limit B.
  7. Wire the controls. For a single zone, run the 24 V thermostat to TV and T. For zone valves, run the end switches in parallel to T and TV, and power the thermostats and valves from W. Add the jumper between TH and the end switch on valves 1 and 2, and give the third valve its own 24 V transformer. For R882C relays, run the thermostats from Z to coil terminal B, the coil W to TV, and the upper contacts in parallel to TV and T.
  8. Connect the circulator to C1 and C2. With R882C relays, C1 feeds the lower N.O. contacts, each COM. feeds its zone circulator, and the circulators return to C2.
  9. Connect the 120 V supply last: hot to L1, neutral to L2. The supply needs a disconnect and overload protection.

Testing and start-up

Before you apply power, recheck every terminal against the drawing. Make sure nothing bridges B1, B2 or B3, and tug each wire to confirm it is tight. Set the thermostat heat anticipator to 0.2 A. Set the high limit dial to the boiler manufacturer's recommendation. On millivolt models, set the AUTO-MANUAL switch to AUTO.

Restore power. You should read about 120 V AC between L1 and L2. Raise the thermostat setting. The relay should pull in, the circulator should start, and the burner should light as long as the boiler water is below the high limit. Lower the thermostat setting: both the burner and the circulator should stop. If the boiler reaches the high limit during a call, the burner shuts off while the circulator keeps running. Watch the system through at least one complete cycle. In a zoned system, test each zone on its own.

Safety notes

  • The case holds 120 V terminals next to the low-voltage ones. Disconnect power before you remove the cover, even to adjust the dial.
  • Never jumper or short B1, B2 or B3: it burns out the internal transformer.
  • Do not exceed the ratings: 7.4 A full load at 120 V for the circulator, 0.8 A at 24 V AC for a 24 V burner, and 0.25 A for a millivolt burner. The total 24 V load must not exceed 1.4 A, or 1.2 A above 77°F (25°C).
  • Never run the boiler without a working pressure relief valve.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
Circulator runs on a call for heat, but the burner never lights (24 V gas valve) TP–Z jumper missing, or the gas valve is wired to B1–B2 instead of B1–B3 Confirm the TP–Z jumper is in place and the valve wires go to B1 and B3. With the thermostat calling, measure about 24 V AC across TR and TH at the gas valve.
Millivolt gas valve won't open even though the pilot is lit Valve wired to B3, or the TP–Z jumper was left in Move the valve wires to B1 (to TH1) and B2 (to TH2), and remove the TP–Z jumper. Check that the Powerpile leads are tight on both PP terminals.
Nothing works: no burner and no circulator, and the thermostat seems dead Transformer burned out by a short across B1, B2 or B3, or no 120 V at L1–L2 Measure 120 V AC between L1 and L2. If it is present but there is no 24 V on the control circuit, look for a shorted burner wire or a jumper across the B terminals. A burned-out transformer means replacing the control.
After I added the low limit, the system won't respond to the thermostat L6006 miswired, or the W–Z jumper is still in place alongside it Remove the W–Z jumper. Check the L6006 connections: W to W, R to Z, and B to the high limit B. Use the low limit only with a B1–B3 burner circuit.
Boiler won't fire unless the low limit is connected, or it stops working when I disconnect it W–Z jumper removed without a low limit controller in its place Reinstall the W–Z jumper between W and Z whenever no L6006 is connected.
Zone valves open, but the boiler and pump never start End switches not wired in parallel to T and TV, or a loose end-switch lead With one valve fully open, check for continuity across that valve's end switch, and confirm one lead of each switch goes to T and the other to TV.
Zone valves open slowly or chatter, or the control works intermittently on hot days 24 V transformer overloaded by too many valves Power no more than two V8043 valves from the L8148J, and only one above 77°F (25°C). Move additional valves to their own transformer.
Burner short-cycles, or the thermostat overshoots or undershoots the setpoint Thermostat heat anticipator set wrong Set the thermostat's heat anticipator to 0.2 A.
Burner runs, but the circulator never starts Loose or misplaced circulator lead, or the neutral is missing at L2 With the thermostat calling, measure 120 V AC at the circulator leads. Check that C1 and C2 are tight and that L2 is connected to the supply neutral.
I get a tingle or shock from the boiler or control case Case not grounded Turn off the power. Connect an equipment ground conductor to the grounding screw provided, and check continuity from the case to ground.
Wire keeps coming loose from a terminal, or a terminal gets hot Wire wrapped the wrong way, not enough wrap, or aluminum wire used Use copper wire only. Strip 7/16 in., wrap at least three-quarters of the way around the screw, tighten until snug, then tighten one-half turn more.
Burner runs nonstop on a millivolt system and ignores the thermostat AUTO-MANUAL switch left in MANUAL Set the switch back to AUTO. MANUAL is only for running the burner during a power failure.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


Can the L8148J control both 24 V and millivolt gas valves?
Yes, the L8148J works with either type, and you choose by wiring and jumpers. For a 24 V gas valve, wire the burner to B1 and B3 and keep both the TP–Z and W–Z jumpers in place. For a Powerpile millivoltage valve, wire the burner to B1 and B2, remove the TP–Z jumper, and keep the W–Z jumper. It does not switch line-voltage burner circuits.

What is the W–Z jumper for, and when should I remove it?
The W–Z jumper completes the 24 V control circuit, and you remove it only when you add a remote low limit controller such as the L6006. Without a low limit, leave it in place: it also supplies the 24 V used for zone valves on W and for R882C relays on Z. The low limit connection is meant for the 24 V (B1–B3) burner circuit only, so don't add one to a millivolt setup.

How many zone valves can the L8148J power by itself?
The L8148J can power up to two V8043 zone valves from its built-in transformer. If the ambient temperature around the control exceeds 77°F (25°C), it can power only one. Each additional group of valves, two or fewer per group, needs its own 24 V transformer. That is why the third valve in the zoning drawing has a separate transformer. The total 24 V load must stay at or below 1.4 A, or 1.2 A in hot locations.

How many R882C relays can I run from the L8148J?
You can power as many as three R882C relays from the L8148J. Each additional group, up to three relays per group, needs an additional transformer. The relays let each zone run its own circulator: the lower contacts switch 120 V from C1 to each zone pump, and the upper contacts, wired in parallel, close T–TV so the L8148J fires the burner on any zone call.

What thermostat do I need, and what should the heat anticipator be set to?
You need a 24 V AC thermostat with its heat anticipator set to 0.2 A. Line-voltage thermostats won't work, because the L8148J's T and TV terminals are part of its internal 24 V circuit. The zoning drawings use T87F thermostats, but any compatible 24 V heating thermostat will do. If yours has no adjustable anticipator, follow its maker's guidance for a 0.2 A circuit.

How large a circulator can the L8148J switch?
The L8148J can switch a circulator rated up to 7.4 A full load and 44.4 A locked rotor at 120 V AC. Compare these numbers with the nameplate on your pump. If you use R882C relays with several zone pumps, each relay contact carries its own pump. If your pump is larger than the rating, use a separate pump relay rated for the load.

What does the AUTO-MANUAL switch do?
The AUTO-MANUAL switch lets a millivolt L8148J run the burner during a power failure. In MANUAL, the Powerpile-powered gas valve runs continuously until the boiler reaches the high limit or you return the switch to AUTO. The circulator does not run without 120 V, so heat distribution is limited. When power returns, set the switch back to AUTO for normal thermostat control.

Can I replace an L8148A or L8148E with an L8148J?
Often yes, but only if your burner circuit is 24 V or millivolt, because the L8148J doesn't switch line-voltage burners like the L8148A. It also lacks the vent damper plug found on some L8148E models. Tag each old lead using the old cover insert, then rewire to the matching L8148J terminals. If the old B1 was a screw terminal, use the supplied tab-to-screw adapter.

What should I set the high limit to?
Set the high limit to the temperature your boiler manufacturer recommends, because the right setting differs from system to system. The scale typically covers 140°F to 240°F or 180°F to 240°F, depending on the version. The differential is fixed. If your dial has a stop, pry the stop up with a small screwdriver, turn the dial to the setting, and make sure the stop lies flat afterward.

Why does the case have to be grounded?
The case must be grounded because it holds 120 V terminals for the supply and circulator. If a line-voltage wire loosens or its insulation fails, a grounded case trips the protection instead of becoming live. Connect your equipment ground conductor to the grounding screw provided on the case. Do this in every installation, whichever tab or variant you use.

Can I use aluminum or stranded wire on the terminals?
No aluminum: the L8148J terminals are approved for copper wire only. They are wrap-around screw terminals, so solid copper is easiest to wrap securely at least three-quarters of the way around each screw. B1 is a 1/4 in. tab and takes 18 to 22 gauge wire with a fully insulated flag receptacle. If you use stranded wire, twist the strands tightly so none stray toward neighboring terminals.

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