Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram

Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram

Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram

5/5 (1👤)
🚗 Automotive 🧮 6 schematics
★Rate It★

How many stars do you give this diagram?

Complete diagram

Every cable and connector on the unit and where each one goes.

Complete diagram
REAR OF UNITDEH-S6120BSTo an externalpower amp10 AFRONT OF UNIT−+BATTERYSPEAKERSVEHICLE ANTENNASIRIUSXM TUNERMICROPHONE (3 m)Hard-wired remotecontrol adapterREAR (STD) / MID (NW)FRONT (STD) / HIGH (NW)SUBWOOFER OUTGROUND(Black)CHASSISCONSTANT 12 V(Yellow)SWITCHED 12 V(Red)IGNITION KEYSYSTEM REMOTE(Blue/White)To the amp remote orauto-antenna relayILLUMINATION(Orange/White)To the illumination signal(White)(White/Black)+−Front left (F/H)(Gray)(Gray/Black)+−Front right (F/H)(Green)(Green/Black)+−Rear left (R/M)(Violet)(Violet/Black)+−Rear right (R/M)USBUSB device or phoneAUXExternal player

Terminals and components · 18

  • Constant 12 V
  • Switched 12 V
  • Ground
  • System remote
  • Illumination and preamp
  • Speakers
  • AUX input
  • Connectors
  • Antenna and devices

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from page 3 of the Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Car Audio & Stereo (Automotive) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Wiring Diagrams

Complete

1 / 6
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Complete
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Speakers · Four speakers
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Speakers · 4 Ω subwoofers
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Speakers · 2 Ω subwoofer
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Speakers · Two 4 Ω in parallel
Pioneer DEH-S6120BS Audio Receiver Wiring Diagram – Power amp

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

The Pioneer DEH-S6120BS receiver is for 12 V, negative-ground vehicles only. It runs on 14.4 V DC (10.8 V to 15.1 V allowable), draws up to 10.0 A and is protected by a 10 A fuse. First decide which layout matches your system. The Complete tab shows every connection. The Speakers tab covers the speaker leads, with four variants: Four speakers for front and rear full-range speakers, 4 Ω subwoofers if you drive 4 Ω subwoofers from the green and violet leads, 2 Ω subwoofer for a single 2 Ω subwoofer, and Two 4 Ω in parallel for a pair of 4 Ω subwoofers wired as a 2 Ω load. The Power amp tab covers external amplifiers fed from the RCA outputs.

Tools and materials: panel removal tools, a digital multimeter, wire strippers, crimp connectors or solder with heat-shrink tubing, insulating tape, and cable clamps or ties. If your vehicle has a factory connector, a harness adapter and dash kit for your model saves you from cutting factory wiring. The power cord is supplied, and you should not shorten it. The sources give no wire gauge for speaker extensions or amplifier power runs, so use quality speaker wire suited to the length of the run, and follow the amplifier's own manual for its power and ground cables.

Pioneer warns that installing this unit without training and experience in automotive electronics can be dangerous. If you are not comfortable working around the vehicle's wiring, or the installation needs drilling or other changes to the vehicle, have a professional installer do it.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal and keep it away from the post until you finish.
  2. Identify the vehicle wires with your multimeter, briefly reconnecting the battery only for this step. Constant 12 V is present with the key out. Switched 12 V appears only in ACC or ON. The illumination signal goes to 12 V when the headlights are on. Label each wire, then disconnect the battery again.
  3. Connect Black: chassis ground first, to a clean, paint-free metal part of the body. If you also install a power amp, give its ground wire its own screw. Never share one screw between the two.
  4. Connect Yellow: constant 12 V to the constant 12 V supply terminal. Do not run the yellow lead through the firewall straight to the battery.
  5. Connect Red: switched 12 V to the terminal controlled by the ignition switch. If the ignition has no ACC position, the red lead must go to a terminal that senses key operation, or the battery will drain.
  6. Connect Orange/white: illumination to the car's illumination signal.
  7. Connect Blue/white: system remote to the system remote terminal of the power amp or to the auto-antenna relay control terminal (300 mA max, 12 V DC). With a glass antenna, connect it to the antenna booster power supply terminal. Never connect it to the power terminal of an amp or an auto antenna.
  8. Wire the speakers for your variant: the plain color goes to + and the black-striped wire to −. Front (FL, FR) is white and gray. Rear (RL, RR) is green and violet. A single 2 Ω subwoofer goes on violet and violet/black only, and you tape off green and green/black. Never ground a speaker negative and never join the negatives of several speakers.
  9. For external amps, run RCA cables from FRONT OUT, REAR OUT and SUB OUT to the matching amplifier inputs.
  10. Plug in the antenna at ANT. Add the optional SiriusXM tuner at SiriusXM and the wired remote adapter at REMOTE if you use them. Connect the MIC and route its 3 m lead to the sun visor or the rear of the steering column. Keep it from winding around the column or shift lever.
  11. Cover every unused lead and connector with insulating tape. Clamp or tape the wiring, wrap it wherever it touches metal, and keep it away from seat rails, the shift lever and heater outlets.
  12. Plug the power cord into the unit and mount it at an angle of less than 60°. Leave about 5 cm of free space behind it so it can shed heat.

Testing and start-up

Check all connections before you close the dash, then reconnect the battery negative. Remove the front panel and press RESET with a pointed tool longer than 8 mm. Turn the ignition to ON and the setup menu appears.

In the setup menu, set SPEAKER MODE to match your wiring: STANDARD for front, rear and subwoofer systems, NETWORK for 2-way high range, middle range and subwoofer systems. You cannot change this later without a SYSTEM RESET. Then, under INITIAL, set REAR-SP to SW if a subwoofer is on the rear leads without an amp, or FUL for full-range rear speakers. Under AUDIO, set SUBWOOFER to ON if you have a subwoofer.

Verify the power leads: with the key out, the yellow lead should read about 12 V to chassis and the red lead 0 V. The unit should keep its clock and presets after the key is cycled. With the unit on, blue/white should read about 12 V and any amp or power antenna should switch on. Start at low volume and use BALANCE and FADER to confirm each speaker plays from the right position. Turn on the headlights to test the illumination input.

Safety notes

  • Use speakers rated over 50 W and 4 to 8 Ω on the four channels, and never 1 to 3 Ω. A 2 Ω subwoofer must be rated over 70 W.
  • Running the wrong speaker mode for your speaker system can damage the speakers.
  • Replace the fuse only with one of the prescribed 10 A rating. Never cut into this unit's power cord to supply other devices, because its current capacity is limited.
  • A loose or missing ground screw can cause fire, smoke or malfunction. Keep the unit away from moisture.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
The radio is completely dead and won't turn on Blown 10 A fuse, no power on yellow or red, or a poor black ground Check the fuse and replace it only with a 10 A fuse. With the key in ACC, measure about 12 V from yellow and from red to chassis. Check that the black lead is bolted tight to bare, paint-free metal.
The clock and presets are lost every time I turn off the car Yellow and red are swapped, or yellow is on a switched circuit With the key out, yellow must still read about 12 V and red 0 V. Swap the leads or move yellow to a true constant 12 V supply.
The battery goes flat after the car sits overnight Red is on a constant 12 V source (common in cars with no ACC position), or blue/white is on an amp or antenna power terminal Measure red with the key out: it must read 0 V. Make sure blue/white goes only to a remote or relay control terminal. Also check that Bluetooth isn't left on standby with the engine off.
The display shows AMP ERROR and there is no sound A speaker lead is shorted, a speaker negative is grounded, negatives are joined together, or the load is too low Disconnect the speakers and check each lead for continuity to chassis: there should be none. Confirm 4 to 8 Ω per channel, with 2 Ω allowed only on violet. Then turn the ignition off and back on.
The sound is thin and the bass seems to cancel out One speaker is wired with reversed polarity Check that every plain-color lead goes to + and every black-striped lead to − at each speaker. Correct the reversed pair.
The left and right or front and rear sound swapped Speaker pairs are connected to the wrong leads Use BALANCE and FADER at low volume to find which speaker plays. Move the pairs so white is left front, gray right front, green left rear and violet right rear.
Tweeters crackle or full bass goes to the small speakers The speaker mode doesn't match the wiring, for example STANDARD on a network system Turn the volume down immediately. Run SYSTEM RESET and choose the correct SPEAKER MODE in the setup menu.
The subwoofer on the rear leads plays vocals, or there is no subwoofer phase or crossover option REAR-SP is set to FUL, or SUBWOOFER is set to OFF In INITIAL settings, set REAR-SP to SW. Then set SUBWOOFER to ON in the AUDIO settings.
The external amp or power antenna never turns on Blue/white is not connected, or it is connected to the wrong terminal With the head unit on, measure about 12 V on blue/white. Confirm it goes to the amp's system remote terminal or the antenna relay control terminal, and that the amp has its own power and separate ground.
The display doesn't dim when I turn on the headlights Orange/white is not connected to the illumination signal, or the dimmer is not set to follow it Measure about 12 V on the vehicle wire with the headlights on. Check that DIM SETTING is set to SYNC ILLUMI.
SiriusXM shows CHECK TUNER or CHECK ANTENNA The tuner cable is loose at the SiriusXM input, or the antenna cable is damaged Reseat the tuner cable at the back of the unit and inspect the antenna lead. Make sure the magnetic antenna sits on an outside metal surface.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


How do I know which diagram variant matches my car?
Pick the variant that matches what is connected to the green and violet leads. Choose Four speakers if you have full-range speakers front and rear. Choose 4 Ω subwoofers if 4 Ω subwoofers sit on the green and violet leads with no amp. Choose 2 Ω subwoofer for a single 2 Ω subwoofer on violet. Choose Two 4 Ω in parallel if you join a pair of 4 Ω subwoofers on violet. If you use external amplifiers on the RCA outputs, follow the Power amp tab as well.

Can I connect a subwoofer directly to this receiver without an amplifier?
Yes. You can connect a subwoofer directly to the rear speaker leads. A 4 Ω subwoofer can go on a rear pair. A 2 Ω subwoofer must go on violet and violet/black only, with green and green/black taped and left unused, and it must be rated over 70 W. The unit delivers up to 70 W into 2 Ω on that one channel. After wiring, set REAR-SP to SW and SUBWOOFER to ON so the rear channel is filtered for bass.

What is the difference between standard mode and network mode?
Standard mode is for a conventional front and rear speaker system, optionally with subwoofers. In that case the white and gray leads feed the front speakers and the green and violet leads feed the rear. Network mode builds a 2-way system plus subwoofer: the same leads feed separate high range and middle range speakers, with dedicated high-pass and low-pass crossover filters for each. Pick the mode that matches your wiring, because using the wrong one can damage the speakers.

Can I change the speaker mode after the first setup?
Not directly. You choose the speaker mode when the setup menu appears the first time you turn the ignition on, and you cannot finish setup without choosing it. After that, the only way to change it is a SYSTEM RESET, which restores the default settings and brings back the setup menu. Plan your speaker system before first power-up, because any custom audio settings are lost when you reset.

Can the blue/white wire power my amplifier or power antenna?
No. The blue/white lead is only a turn-on signal, limited to 300 mA at 12 V DC. Connect it to the amplifier's system remote terminal or to the auto-antenna relay control terminal, never to an amp's or antenna's power terminal, since that can drain the battery or cause a malfunction. Each amplifier needs its own fused power feed and a separate ground screw, sized according to the amplifier's instructions.

My car has no ACC position on the ignition. How do I wire the red lead?
Connect the red lead to a circuit that only goes live when the key is turned on. In a car without an ACC position, that means a terminal that senses ignition key operation. If you put red on a constant 12 V source, the receiver never truly switches off and will drain the battery. Use a multimeter to confirm the circuit reads 0 V with the key out and about 12 V with the key on.

Can I tap the receiver's yellow or red wire to power other accessories?
No. Never cut into the insulation of this unit's power cord to share its power with other devices, because the cord's current capacity is limited and overloading it risks overheating. Do not shorten the cord either. Feed other accessories from their own properly fused vehicle circuits. Also avoid running the yellow lead through the firewall straight to the battery, and connect it to the vehicle's constant 12 V supply terminal instead.

What fuse does this receiver use?
The receiver is protected by a 10 A fuse, which matches its maximum current draw of 10.0 A. If the fuse blows, replace it only with a fuse of the same 10 A rating. A larger fuse would no longer protect the wiring or the unit. If a new fuse blows again right away, look for a short in the power, ground or speaker wiring before trying again.

How much power does it deliver, and what speakers should I use?
The receiver is rated at 50 W maximum on each of 4 channels into 4 Ω, 22 W continuous on each of 4 channels, and 14 W RMS on each of 4 channels by the CEA-2006 standard. With a subwoofer, it delivers 50 W on each of 2 channels plus 70 W on one channel into 2 Ω. On the four channels, use speakers rated over 50 W maximum input with an impedance of 4 to 8 Ω, and never 1 to 3 Ω. For more power, use external amps on the RCA outputs.

My car has a glass antenna. Where does the blue/white wire go?
Connect the blue/white lead to the antenna booster power supply terminal. Glass antennas usually have an amplifier that needs power whenever the radio is on, and blue/white supplies exactly that switched signal while the unit is on, up to 300 mA. If you also have an external amplifier, both the booster and the amp remote can use this signal, as long as their combined draw stays within the 300 mA limit.

Where should I mount the supplied microphone?
Mount the microphone directly in front of the driver, close enough to pick up your voice clearly. You can clip it to the sun visor, using the groove for the lead, or stick it to the rear of the steering column with double-sided tape. If the 3 m lead is too short for the visor in your car, use the steering column. Never let the lead wrap around the steering column or shift lever, and keep the visor up for better voice recognition.

Related Product Diagrams

Go up