MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

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Basic installation

Digital 6AL wiring with points or amplifier trigger, or with an MSD distributor.

Basic installation
MSD DIGITAL 6ALPN 6425MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)+−COILGRAY: TACHOUTPUTTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITEFROM POINTS OR AMPLIFIER(ORIGINAL COIL − WIRE)ORANGEBLACKRPMIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD DIGITAL 6ALPN 6425+−COILMSD DISTRIBUTOROR CRANK TRIGGERGRAY: TACHOUTPUTTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITE (NOT USED)ORANGEBLACKPN 8860 HARNESSVIOLET +GREEN −RPMIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD DIGITAL 6ALPN 6425MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)BLACK TO GROUND+−COILGRAY: TACHOUTPUTTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDDISTRIBUTOR REDDISTRIBUTOR ORANGE TO WHITEWHITEORANGEBLACKRPMDISTRIBUTORPN 8360IGNITION KEYTO 12V

Terminals and components · 9

  • Battery +
  • Ground
  • Switched 12 V
  • Trigger (white)
  • Coil +
  • Coil −

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from pages 10–19 of the MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Ignition (Automotive) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable MSD 6AL 6425 Wiring Diagrams

Basic · Points or amplifier

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MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · Points or amplifier
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD distributor or crank trigger
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD 8360 distributor
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Timing control
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Complete dual setup
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 1996+ coil, no harness
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · MSD harness
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 4-pin HEI
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 5 or 7-pin HEI
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (white)
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · TFI with 8874 harness
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Electronic (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Dodge with 2-pin connector
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · General import
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory 9000 (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory Unilite or 9000
MSD 6AL 6425 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Pertronix

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

First, find the tab that matches your vehicle. Use Basic for points, an ignition amplifier, an MSD distributor or crank trigger, or an MSD 8360 distributor. Use MSD controls if you add an MSD timing control or a dual ignition setup. Use GM, Ford or Chrysler for factory ignitions, and Aftermarket for imports, Mallory or Pertronix systems. On GM large cap HEI distributors, remove the cap and rotor and count the terminals on the ignition module. Then pick the 4-pin HEI or the 5 or 7-pin HEI variant.

Next, decide which trigger you will use. The MSD 6AL 6425 has two trigger circuits: the White wire for points, an amplifier or an MSD control, and the Magnetic pickup connector (Violet + and Green −) for a magnetic pickup. Only one is used at a time.

You will need:

  • Basic hand tools, a drill with a 3/16" bit and a digital multimeter.
  • Soldering equipment and heat-shrink tubing. Every connection must be soldered and sealed.
  • Extension wire if needed: 12 gauge for the power leads and 16 gauge for the other wires. You can shorten any wire.
  • Quality helically wound spark plug wires. A new distributor cap and rotor are recommended.

The unit needs a negative ground 12 volt system with a distributor. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery, negative cable first. If you are not comfortable working on ignition wiring, have a qualified automotive technician do the job.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Set the cylinder count first. The unit comes set for 8 cylinders. For an even-fire 6-cylinder, cut one wire loop on the side of the unit. For a 4-cylinder, cut both loops.
  2. Choose a mounting spot away from direct engine heat. Avoid enclosed spaces such as the glove box. Check that every wire reaches its connection and that you can get to the rev limiter dials. Mark the holes, drill them with the 3/16" bit and mount the unit on the vibration mounts.
  3. Remove the original wires from the coil terminals. In most installations, the original coil + wire (from the key) goes to the MSD Red. The original coil − wire (from the points or amplifier) goes to the MSD White. If there is a ballast resistor in the coil wiring, bypass it.
  4. Connect the Orange wire to coil + and the Black wire to coil −. Nothing else may touch either coil terminal.
  5. Connect your trigger. With the White wire, tape over the unused magnetic pickup connector. With a magnetic pickup, plug the Violet and Green connector into the MSD distributor, crank trigger or adapter harness shown in your variant, and leave the White wire unused. On a dual point setup, remove the trailing set of points.
  6. If the Red: switched 12 V wire does not reuse the original coil + wire, connect it to a 12 V source that is live only with the key on.
  7. Run the Heavy red lead straight to the battery + terminal or the + side of the starter solenoid. Never connect it to the alternator. Run the Heavy black lead to the battery − terminal or to clean, paint-free metal on the engine. Make sure there is a ground strap between the engine and the chassis.
  8. Connect the Gray: tach output wire to the tachometer trigger wire or another rpm-activated accessory.
  9. Set the Rev limiter dials under the black cover. The left dial sets thousands and the right dial sets hundreds. For 10,000 rpm and up, put the left dial on 1. Both dials on zero turns the limiter off. If an MSD Ready-to-Run distributor has its own rev limiter, set that one to zero.
  10. Route the trigger wires away from the other wires and the plug wires, ideally along the block or firewall. Twist the magnetic pickup wires together. Keep all wiring away from headers and sharp edges.
  11. Reconnect the battery, negative cable last.

Testing and start-up

Before cranking, run through this checklist:

  • Only Orange and Black are on the coil terminals.
  • The small Red goes to switched 12 V.
  • The heavy leads go directly to the battery.
  • The engine has a ground strap.
  • The cylinder loops are set correctly.

Turn the key on without cranking. The LED should light steadily, and the small Red should read about 12 V to ground. The coil + terminal reads no voltage with the key on; that is normal for this ignition. If a tachometer is on the Gray wire, it briefly shows the rev limit setting each time you turn the key on.

To check for spark without the engine running:

  1. Turn the key off, pull the coil wire from the cap and hold its end about 1/2" from ground.
  2. Disconnect the trigger from the distributor and turn the key on.
  3. With a White trigger, tap the White wire to ground several times. With a magnetic trigger, short Green to Violet with a jumper several times.
  4. Each time you break the contact, a spark should jump to ground.

Then reconnect the trigger and start the engine. While it runs, the LED flashes with each trigger signal, which looks almost steady at higher rpm. Set the timing with a standard inductive timing light.

Safety notes

  • This is a capacitive discharge ignition. Its capacitor charges to roughly 520 to 535 volts, and the coil produces very high voltage. Never touch the coil terminals and never connect test equipment to them while cranking or running.
  • Do not use solid core spark plug wires. Do not use digital or dial back timing lights.
  • Before welding on the vehicle, disconnect both heavy power leads and the tach ground wire.
  • The unit has reverse polarity protection, but still check polarity before you reconnect the battery.
  • No inline fuse size is specified for the heavy leads. Keep them short, protect them from chafing and secure every terminal tightly.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
Engine cranks but there is no spark and the LED stays off with the key on The small Red is not getting switched 12 V With the key on, measure the small Red to ground. You should see 12 V. If not, move it to another switched 12 V source.
Engine cranks but won't start, the LED is on, but it never flashes while cranking Trigger not connected, or the wrong trigger circuit is in use Use only one trigger: White for points or an amplifier, or Violet and Green for a magnetic pickup. Do the spark test by tapping White to ground or shorting Green to Violet.
No spark even though the unit has power and the trigger tests fine Bad coil, or extra wires on the coil terminals Make sure only Orange is on coil + and only Black is on coil −. Swap in another coil and repeat the spark test.
Misfires, weak running or intermittent cutting out Poor ground or loose heavy power leads Check that the Heavy black is on clean, bare metal or battery −, that the engine has a ground strap, and that the Heavy red goes directly to battery + or the starter solenoid, not the alternator.
Engine runs badly or fires erratically on a 4 or 6-cylinder Cylinder select loops not cut Cut one loop for an even-fire 6, two loops for a 4. Uncut loops mean the unit is still set for 8 cylinders.
Engine keeps running after you turn the key off Charging lamp circuit is back-feeding voltage into the small Red Install the supplied diode inline in the charging indicator wire, facing the correct direction. On Ford it goes on terminal 1, on early GM terminal 4, and on 1973-1983 Delcotron alternators on the smallest wire leaving the alternator.
Tachometer reads zero or jumps around Tach is not compatible with the trigger, or a GM inline filter is in the circuit Connect the tach trigger to the Gray wire first. If it still fails, use a PN 8910 adapter with a White wire trigger or a PN 8920 with a magnetic trigger. On GM, bypass the inline filter.
Engine stops climbing at a certain rpm, earlier than expected Rev limiter dials set too low Under the black cover, the left dial is thousands and the right dial is hundreds. Both on zero turns the limiter off. If you have an MSD Ready-to-Run distributor with its own limiter, set that one to zero too.
Imported fuel-injected car won't run after the install The shared trigger signal is too weak for the fuel injection Install an MSD Tach Adapter PN 8910. Use PN 8910-EIS if that doesn't fix it, and always on Toyotas and Ford Probes.
GM 5-pin HEI hesitates or stalls when you lift off the throttle Known issue on some 5-pin modules Contact MSD technical support for the required bolt-in diode.
Erratic timing or false triggering with a magnetic pickup Pickup wires picking up interference, or polarity reversed Make sure Violet goes to pickup + and Green to pickup −. Twist the two wires together, route them away from the plug wires, and check that the plug wires are not solid core.
Engine misses at high rpm when running without an alternator Battery voltage sags under load Check battery voltage under load: below 9 V, the output drops. Allow at least 15 amp/hour for every half hour of running, and keep the battery fully charged with clean terminals.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


What are the different wire colors on an MSD distributor?
An MSD magnetic pickup distributor uses a two-wire connector: Violet is positive (+) and Green is negative (−). It plugs into the matching Magnetic pickup connector of the 6AL, usually through the PN 8860 harness. An MSD 8360 Ready-to-Run distributor has more wires. Its red goes to switched 12 V along with the MSD Red, its orange trigger output goes to the MSD White, and its black goes to ground. The 6AL's own Orange and Black go only to the coil. Check your distributor's instructions to confirm the colors on your model.

How do I hook up an MSD ignition?
Connect the heavy leads directly to the battery and the small leads to the key, the trigger and the coil. The Heavy red goes to battery + or the starter solenoid, and the Heavy black goes to battery − or the engine. The small Red goes to switched 12 V. Orange goes to coil + and Black to coil −, and they are the only wires on the coil. Trigger the unit with either the White wire, for points or an amplifier, or the Violet and Green magnetic pickup connector, never both. Disconnect the battery before you start.

Does an MSD 6AL control timing?
No, the 6AL does not advance or retard your ignition timing. It fires the coil each time it gets a trigger signal, so timing still comes from the distributor or crank trigger. You set base timing at the distributor with a standard inductive timing light, never a digital or dial back light. To control timing electronically, for example to add retard, place an MSD timing control in the trigger path, with its yellow wire going to the MSD White, as shown on the MSD controls tab.

Can I install the 6AL on a 4 or 6-cylinder engine?
Yes, as long as you set the cylinder count before you start the engine. The unit comes set for 8 cylinders. Cut one of the two wire loops on the side of the unit for an even-fire 6-cylinder, or cut both loops for a 4-cylinder. Cutting a loop is permanent, so check your engine before you cut. Only even-fire 6-cylinder engines are covered by this setting.

Do I need to keep the ballast resistor?
No, bypass it. The 6AL feeds the coil itself from its own capacitor, which is charged from the heavy battery leads. A ballast resistor in the old coil circuit is not needed and should come out of the circuit. The one exception is the Chrysler dual ballast resistor trick: some current-trigger tachometers can use it when the engine is triggered with the White wire.

Which ignition coils work with the MSD 6AL?
The 6AL works with most stock coils and with aftermarket coils designed to replace stock coils. MSD Blaster coils suit street and mild racing use. For long periods at high rpm, the Blaster HVC PN 8252 or HVC II PN 8253 are recommended. Whatever coil you use, only the MSD Orange may touch coil + and only the MSD Black may touch coil −.

How do I set the rev limiter, and can I turn it off?
You set it with two dials under the black cover next to the LED; pry the cover up with the supplied screwdriver. The left dial sets thousands and the right dial sets hundreds, for a range of 2,000 to 10,900 rpm. For 10,000 rpm and up, set the left dial to 1. Set both dials to zero to turn the limiter off. You can adjust it with the engine running, and the limit is accurate to within 1% of the setting.

What voltage does the 6AL need, and can it run without an alternator?
It needs a negative ground 12 volt system and delivers full output from 9 to 18 volts. It handles 16 volt batteries and can survive a brief 24 volts during a jump start. Without an alternator, allow at least 15 amp/hour for every half hour of running. The unit draws about 0.9 A per 1,000 rpm, so plan for more capacity if the same battery also cranks the engine or runs an electric fuel or water pump.

Can I shorten or lengthen the MSD wires?
Yes, you can shorten or lengthen every wire. To lengthen a wire, go one size heavier: 12 gauge for the heavy power leads and 16 gauge for the other wires. Shortened wires need quality connectors or soldered joints. Either way, solder and seal every connection. Keep the magnetic pickup wires twisted and routed away from the plug wires.

Will my factory or aftermarket tachometer work with the 6AL?
Most will, through the Gray tach output, which sends a 12 volt square wave signal. Many aftermarket tachs, including Autometer, Mallory, Moroso and VDO, connect straight to the Gray wire. Some voltage-triggered and factory tachs need an adapter: PN 8910 with a White wire trigger, or PN 8920 with a magnetic trigger. On GM vehicles, bypass the inline tach filter.

Can I use solid core spark plug wires with the 6AL?
No. Solid core wires give off strong electrical interference that disrupts the MSD and can cause erratic operation. Use quality helically wound spark plug wires. Route them away from heat and sharp edges, and keep wires that are next to each other in the firing order apart, so a spark from one is not induced into the other.

Can I add an anti-theft kill switch to the 6AL?
Yes. If you trigger with the White wire, install a switch between the magnetic pickup Violet wire and ground. If you trigger with the magnetic pickup, install the switch between the White wire and ground. With the switch closed, the engine cranks but will not start. Mount the switch somewhere hidden and use soldered, sealed connections.

Is the 6AL damaged if I connect the battery leads backward?
The 6AL has built-in reverse polarity protection, so a reversed connection should not damage it. It will not work until you correct the polarity, though. Always check that the Heavy red goes to battery + and the Heavy black goes to battery − or the engine before you reconnect the battery. Also disconnect both heavy leads before welding on the vehicle.

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