MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

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Basic installation

6AL wiring with points or amplifier trigger, or with an MSD distributor.

Basic installation
MSD 6ALPN 6420MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)+−COILTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITEFROM POINTS OR AMPLIFIER(ORIGINAL COIL − WIRE)ORANGEBLACKTACHOUTPUTRPM MODULE SOCKETIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD 6ALPN 6420+−COILMSD DISTRIBUTOROR CRANK TRIGGERTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITE (NOT USED)ORANGEBLACKPN 8860 HARNESSVIOLET +GREEN −TACHOUTPUTRPM MODULE SOCKETIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD 6ALPN 6420MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)BLACK TO GROUND+−COILTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDDISTRIBUTOR REDDISTRIBUTOR ORANGE TO WHITEWHITEORANGEBLACKTACHOUTPUTRPM MODULE SOCKETDISTRIBUTORPN 8360IGNITION KEYTO 12V

Terminals and components · 9

  • Battery +
  • Ground
  • Switched 12 V
  • Trigger (white)
  • Coil +
  • Coil −

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from pages 10–24 of the MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Ignition (Automotive) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable MSD 6AL 6420 Wiring Diagrams

Basic · Points or amplifier

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MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · Points or amplifier
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD distributor or crank trigger
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD 8360 distributor
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Timing control
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Drag race: timing and 2 Step
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Dual MSD with PN 8301
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Complete dual setup
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · Dual connector coil
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 1996+ coil, no harness
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · MSD harness
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · Harness and timing control
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 4-pin HEI
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 5 or 7-pin HEI
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (white)
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · TFI, no harness
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · TFI with 8874 harness
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Electronic (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Dodge with 2-pin connector
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Jeep coil/module
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda, internal coil
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda with Blaster and Power Cap
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda/Acura, external coil
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · General import
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory 9000 (magnetic)
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory Unilite or 9000
MSD 6AL 6420 Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Pertronix

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

First, pick the MSD 6AL 6420 diagram that matches how your engine triggers the ignition. If your coil negative was driven by points, a factory amplifier or another module, use a White wire variant. If you are plugging into a magnetic pickup in an MSD distributor, crank trigger, factory distributor or aftermarket distributor, use a Magnetic pickup connector variant. On a GM large cap HEI, remove the cap and rotor and count the terminals on the ignition module. A 4-pin module uses the magnetic variant. A 5 or 7-pin module uses the white wire variant. A Ford DuraSpark can be wired either way. A TFI or a late GM coil can be wired by splicing or with an MSD plug-in harness.

The 6AL works on any negative ground 12 V system that has a distributor. It cannot be used on distributorless (DIS) engines or on vehicles that came with a CD ignition from the factory. You will need a drill with a 3/16" bit for the vibration mounts, a quality crimper, solder, heat shrink and a digital multimeter. Keep the factory wire gauges. If you must lengthen a wire, go one size bigger: 10 gauge for the heavy power leads and 16 gauge for everything else. Solder and seal every splice. You do not need a fuse because the unit has an internal fuse. If you can't confidently identify the factory coil and trigger wires on your vehicle, have an automotive electrician do the job.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first.
  2. If the engine is a 4 or 6-cylinder even-fire, set the cylinder select before you mount the box. Remove the round black cover on the side, cut the Red or Blue loop shown on the cylinder chart supplied with the unit, bend the cut ends apart and refit the cover.
  3. Mount the unit away from exhaust heat and sharp edges, and never upside down. Install the vibration mounts first. Before you drill, check that every wire reaches its connection.
  4. Run the Heavy red straight to the battery + terminal, a positive junction or the + side of the starter solenoid. Never connect it to the alternator. Run the Heavy black to the battery − terminal or to clean, paint-free metal on the engine. Make sure there is a ground strap between the engine and the chassis.
  5. Remove every original wire from both coil terminals and bypass any ballast resistor. In white wire installations, the original coil + wire usually goes to the MSD Red and the original coil − wire goes to the MSD White. If the car has dual points, remove the trailing set.
  6. Connect the Orange to coil + and the Black to coil −. Nothing else may touch either coil terminal.
  7. Connect only one trigger circuit. If you use the White, leave the magnetic pickup connector unplugged. If you use the Violet · Green connector, Violet is + and Green is −, and you tape and cover the unused White. Twist the pickup wires together and route them separately, preferably along the block or firewall.
  8. If the Red is not already connected, connect it to a source that has 12 V only with the key on.
  9. Plug in the RPM module for your rev limit. Modules come in 100 rpm steps, and 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm modules are included.
  10. If you use a tachometer or shift light, connect it to the Tach output terminal with the supplied Faston receptacle.
  11. If you add an MSD timing control, connect its yellow wire to the MSD White, as shown on the MSD controls tab. On a dual setup, wire each unit exactly as its variant shows.
  12. Reconnect the battery, positive first and negative last.

Testing and start-up

Before you crank the engine, check these points:

  • Orange and Black are the only wires on the coil.
  • Both power leads run directly to the battery or to a valid positive point and ground.
  • The cylinder select is set.
  • The battery is fully charged.

With the key on, the Red should read about 12 V to ground. During cranking it must stay above 10 V or the unit will not fire. You will read no voltage at coil + with the key on. This is normal for a CD ignition, so don't take it as a fault.

For a spark test, turn the key off, remove the coil wire from the cap and hold its end about 1/2" from ground. For a white wire trigger, disconnect the White from the points or amplifier, turn the key on without cranking, and tap the White to ground several times. A spark should jump each time you pull it away. For a magnetic trigger, unplug the pickup and briefly short Violet to Green with a jumper instead. A spark should jump each time you break the short. Once you have a good spark, reconnect the trigger and start the engine.

The unit may sometimes fire one spark when you turn the key on or connect the battery. This is normal.

Safety notes

  • The capacitor charges to about 460 to 480 volts. The coil primary carries that high voltage whenever the engine is cranking or running. Never touch the coil terminals and never connect test equipment to them.
  • Use only helically wound spark plug wires. Solid core wires create interference that disrupts the unit.
  • Before welding on the vehicle, disconnect both heavy power leads and the tach ground wire.
  • Do not seal or pot the box. It is already coated and needs to drain any moisture that gets in.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
Engine cranks but never starts after the install Red wire not getting switched 12 V, or voltage dropping too low while cranking Measure the Red to ground with the key on: you should see about 12 V. While cranking it must stay above 10 V. If it doesn't, move the Red to another switched 12 V source and charge the battery.
No spark at all, even with good power Both trigger circuits connected, or the wrong one used for your distributor Use either the White or the Violet · Green connector, never both. Do the spark test for the circuit you are using: tap the White to ground, or short Violet to Green and break the short.
Engine runs rough or timing is erratic with a magnetic pickup Pickup polarity reversed or wires picking up interference Violet must go to pickup +, Green to pickup −. Check your distributor's pickup colors. Twist the pair and route it away from plug wires and power leads.
Coil or MSD stopped working after start-up An original vehicle wire was left on a coil terminal Disconnect everything except the MSD Orange on coil + and the MSD Black on coil −. Move the original wires to the MSD Red and White as your variant shows. Then repeat the spark test with a known good coil.
Weak spark, misfires or high-rpm miss Poor ground, power leads not taken directly from the battery, or a discharged battery Clean and tighten the Heavy black at the battery − terminal or bare engine metal. Make sure the Heavy red does not go to the alternator. Fit an engine-to-chassis ground strap. Keep the battery above 10 V.
Engine keeps running after the key is turned off Voltage leaking from the charging light circuit into the small Red wire Install the supplied diode in the charging indicator wire, in the correct direction. On early Ford this goes on terminal 1, on early GM terminal 4, and on a Delcotron alternator the smallest wire. On other vehicles, put a resistor in line with the Red.
Rev limiter cuts in at the wrong rpm on a 4 or 6-cylinder Cylinder select not modified, or wrong RPM module Remove the round side cover and check that the correct loop was cut for your cylinder count. Check the rating printed on the module plugged into the socket.
Tachometer reads zero or jumps around Tach still triggered from coil −, or needs an adapter Move the tach trigger wire to the Tach output terminal. If it still doesn't read, use the PN 8910 adapter with a White trigger or the PN 8920 with a magnetic trigger. On GM, bypass the inline tach filter.
Fuel-injected import cranks but won't run The injection system can't read the trigger signal shared with the MSD Add a Tach/Fuel Injection Adapter, PN 8910. If that doesn't fix it, use the PN 8910-EIS, which Toyota and Ford Probe always need.
GM 5-pin HEI hesitates or stalls on deceleration Known issue with some 5-pin modules Check that the White and Red jumpers go to the brown and pink terminals as shown. If the stall continues, ask MSD technical support for the bolt-in diode made for this problem.
Intermittent miss that comes and goes Loose or corroded splices, or plug wires arcing Check every splice for a soldered, sealed joint. Check the plug wires at the cap and the plugs for a tight fit, cuts or burns. Fit a new cap and rotor.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


Do I need to add a fuse to the MSD 6AL power leads?
No, you don't need an external fuse because the 6AL has an internal fuse. Run the Heavy red directly to the battery + terminal, a positive junction or the + side of the starter solenoid. Run the Heavy black to the battery − terminal or to the engine. Never connect the Heavy red to the alternator. If you need to lengthen the 12 gauge power leads, use 10 gauge wire, solder the joints and seal them.

Should I use the White wire or the magnetic pickup connector?
Use whichever matches your trigger source, and never both. The White wire is for points, the output of a factory or aftermarket ignition amplifier, or the yellow wire of an MSD timing control. The Violet · Green connector plugs straight into an MSD distributor, an MSD crank trigger, or a factory or aftermarket magnetic pickup. When you use one circuit, leave the other disconnected and insulated so it can't touch ground.

Can I use the 6AL on a 4 or 6-cylinder engine?
Yes, on an even-fire engine, as long as you set the cylinder select first. The built-in rev limiter is set up for 8 cylinders from the factory. Remove the round black cover on the side of the unit and cut the Red or Blue loop shown on the cylinder chart supplied with it. Bend the cut ends apart so they can't touch, then refit the cover.

Will my stock coil work with the 6AL?
Most stock coils work, and so do most aftermarket coils built to replace them. Some race-only coils are not compatible, for example the MSD Pro Power Coil, PN 8201. Check the coil application chart that comes with the ignition, or ask the coil's manufacturer. Whatever coil you use, the MSD Orange and Black must be the only wires on its terminals.

Can I install the 6AL on an engine with distributorless ignition?
No. The 6AL is built for systems with a distributor and cannot be used on distributorless (DIS) engines. It also can't be used on vehicles that originally came with a factory CD ignition. It works on any negative ground 12 V electrical system with a distributor. It also works with 16 V batteries and can handle a brief 24 V jump start.

How do I change the rev limit?
To change the rev limit, swap the plug-in module in the RPM module socket. Modules come in 100 rpm steps, and 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm modules are included with the 6AL. The Soft Touch limiter cuts spark to individual cylinders and holds the limit within about 1% of the module's value. On a drag race setup, a two-step selector can plug into the same socket so you can switch between two modules.

Do I still need the ballast resistor?
No, you should bypass the ballast resistor. The 6AL gets its main power directly from the battery through the heavy leads, and the small Red wire only needs a switched 12 V signal. The one exception is a current-trigger tachometer used with the White wire. In that case a Chrysler dual ballast resistor wired for the tachometer can keep it reading.

Why is there no voltage at coil + with the key on?
This is normal for a capacitive discharge ignition. The 6AL keeps its energy in an internal capacitor and only sends high voltage to the coil when the trigger fires, so with the key on and the engine stopped, coil + reads nothing. During cranking and running, the coil primary carries several hundred volts. Never touch it or connect test equipment to it. To diagnose a problem, use the spark test instead.

Can I run the 6AL without an alternator?
Yes, as long as the battery has enough capacity. Allow at least 15 amp-hours for every half hour of running. Choose a larger battery if you also crank the engine from it or run an electric fuel or water pump. The unit gives full output from 9 to 18 V and keeps running down to about 5 V. If the voltage falls below 10 V during a run, spark output drops.

Can I wire a hidden kill switch through the 6AL?
Yes, you can wire a kill switch through the trigger circuit you are not using. If you trigger with the White wire, connect a switch between the Violet pickup wire and ground. If you trigger with the magnetic pickup, connect a switch between the White wire and ground. When the switch is closed, the engine cranks but won't start. Hide the switch somewhere a thief won't find it.

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