MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram

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Basic installation

Digital 6 Plus wiring with points or amplifier trigger, or with an MSD distributor.

Basic installation
MSD DIGITAL 6 PLUSPN 6520MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)+−COILTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITEFROM POINTS OR AMPLIFIER(ORIGINAL COIL − WIRE)ORANGEBLACKTACHOUTPUTRPMIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD DIGITAL 6 PLUSPN 6520+−COILMSD DISTRIBUTOROR CRANK TRIGGERTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDWHITE (NOT USED)ORANGEBLACKPN 8860 HARNESSVIOLET +GREEN −TACHOUTPUTRPMIGNITION KEYTO 12VMSD DIGITAL 6 PLUSPN 6520MAGNETIC PICKUP(NOT USED)BLACK TO GROUND+−COILTO BATTERY −HEAVY BLACKTO BATTERY +HEAVY REDREDDISTRIBUTOR REDDISTRIBUTOR ORANGE TO WHITEWHITEORANGEBLACKTACHOUTPUTRPMDISTRIBUTORPN 8360IGNITION KEYTO 12V

Terminals and components · 9

  • Battery +
  • Ground
  • Switched 12 V
  • Trigger (white)
  • Coil +
  • Coil −

About This Diagram

These diagrams are redrawn from pages 11–24 of the MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control manual, and we offer them completely free and in English. We have also categorized it in the Ignition (Automotive) section on Diagramverse, and it has been rated by 1 user with an average rating of 5.0. If you have any specific questions about the MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram, we suggest checking the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) section.

Printable MSD Digital 6 Plus Wiring Diagrams

Basic · Points or amplifier

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MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · Points or amplifier
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD distributor or crank trigger
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Basic · MSD 8360 distributor
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Timing control
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Drag race: timing, 2 Step and retard
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – MSD controls · Complete dual setup
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · Dual connector coil
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 1996+ coil, no harness
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · MSD harness
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · Harness and timing control
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 4-pin HEI
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – GM · 5 or 7-pin HEI
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (white)
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · DuraSpark (magnetic)
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · TFI, no harness
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Ford · TFI with 8874 harness
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Electronic (magnetic)
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Dodge with 2-pin connector
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Chrysler · Jeep coil/module
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda, internal coil
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda with Blaster and Power Cap
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · Honda/Acura, external coil
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Imports · General import
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory 9000 (magnetic)
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Mallory Unilite or 9000
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition Control Wiring Diagram – Aftermarket · Pertronix

Wiring Instructions

Before you start

Start by picking the MSD Digital 6 Plus diagram that matches your car. The Basic tab covers points or an ignition amplifier, an MSD distributor or crank trigger, and the MSD 8360 distributor. MSD controls covers timing controls, drag race setups with 2 Step and retard, and a complete dual setup. The GM, Ford, Chrysler, Imports and Aftermarket tabs cover factory and third-party ignitions. To choose, first decide how the MSD gets its trigger signal. It comes either through the White wire (points, an amplifier output or an MSD control's yellow wire) or through the Magnetic pickup connector (Violet and Green). The unit never uses both at once. On a large-cap GM HEI, take off the cap and rotor and count the pins on the module (4, 5 or 7) to choose the right HEI variant.

Tools you will need: a soldering iron or a good crimper, heat-shrink tubing, a drill (1/8" bit, or 3/16" if you use the supplied vibration mounts), a multimeter, and a conventional timing light. Use helically wound spark plug wires; solid core wires will not work with this ignition. A new distributor cap and rotor are recommended. The heavy power leads are 12 gauge. You can shorten any wire. To lengthen one, go one size heavier: 10 gauge for the power leads and 16 gauge for the others, with every joint soldered and sealed.

Disconnect the battery, negative cable first. Vehicle ignition work does not normally need an electrical permit or a licensed electrician. Still, if you have not done this kind of work before, have an experienced ignition or performance shop do the installation or check it.

Step-by-step wiring

  1. Mount the unit in the engine compartment, away from headers, exhaust manifolds and other direct heat. Do not mount it in an enclosed space such as the glovebox. Make sure every wire reaches its connection and that you can still get to the dials.
  2. Prepare the original coil circuit. If there is a ballast resistor, bypass it. On dual point distributors, remove the trailing set of points. Where your diagram says to, take the original wires off the coil: the original coil negative wire usually becomes the trigger for the MSD White, and the original coil positive wire becomes the switched feed for the MSD Red.
  3. Run the Heavy red straight to the battery + terminal or another positive junction, such as the + side of the starter solenoid. Never connect it to the alternator. Run the Heavy black to the battery − terminal or to clean, paint-free metal on the engine. Make sure there is a ground strap between the engine and the chassis.
  4. Connect the small Red to a 12 V source that is live only with the key on, as your diagram shows.
  5. Connect the trigger. If you use the White, insulate the unused Magnetic pickup connector. If you use the Violet · Green connector, insulate the White. Twist the pickup wires together. Route all trigger wires away from the plug wires and power leads, ideally along the block or firewall.
  6. Set the Green Loop, the small green wire that loops out of the strain relief. Cut it and seal it for an MSD Billet distributor or for a Ford or Chrysler magnetic pickup. Leave it intact for points, factory electronic amplifiers, GM HEI and the MSD crank trigger.
  7. Connect the Orange to coil + and the Black to coil −. These must be the only wires on the coil terminals. Any tach or other wire that used to be on the coil goes somewhere else (see the next step).
  8. Connect the accessories. Wire the Blue and Pink through a switch, line-lock circuit, shifter micro-switch or nitrous activation wire so they get 12 V only when you want that function. Connect a tachometer to the Tach output with the supplied female Faston receptacle.
  9. Set the dials. The unit ships set for 8 cylinders. Use the cylinder select dial: 0 is 4-cyl, 1 is 6-cyl, 2 is 8-cyl, 3 is 6 odd-fire. Positions 4 to 7 are the same counts with the 20° start retard added. Positions 8 and 9 stop the engine from running. Then set the max limit, the 2 Step limit and the retard degrees.
  10. Reconnect the battery, negative cable last.

Testing and start-up

Before you crank, check five things: only Orange and Black are on the coil, the Red is on switched 12 V, the cylinder select is correct, the heavy leads go directly to the battery, and the engine has a ground strap. With the key on and the engine off, measure the small Red to ground. You should read about 12 V. You will not read any voltage at coil +. That is normal for a capacitive discharge ignition.

On a White wire trigger, the LED flashes for each trigger signal, so you can use it to set static timing. With the engine running above idle, the LED should look steady. Check the timing and reset it to your engine's specification, and check total timing. Use a conventional timing light; digital and dial-back lights give false readings with this ignition. The retard only works above 2,000 rpm, so test it under those conditions.

Safety notes

The unit charges its capacitor to 520 to 535 volts, and very high voltage appears at the coil terminals while you crank or run the engine. Do not touch the coil and do not connect test equipment to it at those times. The unit has reverse polarity protection and shuts down above 27 V, but you should still double-check polarity before you reconnect the battery. Before you weld on the vehicle, disconnect both heavy power leads and the tach ground wire. Keep all wiring clear of sharp edges, moving parts and exhaust heat.

Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause What to Check
Engine cranks but there is no spark at all Small Red not on a switched 12 V source, or a bad coil or connection With the key on, measure the small Red to ground; you should read 12 V. If you don't, use another switched source. Set the coil wire about 1/2" from ground, key on, and tap the White to ground (or short Green to Violet). You should get a spark each time you break the contact. Try a different coil.
Everything is wired, but the engine will not run at all Cylinder select dial set to 8 or 9 Set the dial to the correct position for your engine (0 to 3, or 4 to 7 with start retard). Positions 8 and 9 stop the engine from running.
LED flashes about once per second at idle or low rpm Low supply voltage from a charging problem or a poor heavy lead connection Clean and tighten the Heavy red and Heavy black at the battery. Make sure they go straight to the battery, not to the alternator. Charge the battery and check that the charging system holds at least 9 V.
LED flashes once per second and the ignition cuts out Input voltage above 27 V, for example from a surge or a jump start Check the charging system and the battery setup. The unit shuts down to protect itself and runs again once the voltage is corrected.
Engine keeps running after the key is turned off Voltage feeding back to the small Red through the charging indicator lamp circuit Install the supplied diode, facing the right direction, in the charging indicator wire. Ford: the wire to terminal 1. GM: the wire to terminal 4. 1973 to 1983 Delcotron: the smallest wire leaving the alternator, usually brown.
Misfire, erratic running or a jumpy tach reading Solid core plug wires, trigger wires routed next to the plug wires, or both trigger circuits connected Fit helically wound plug wires. Twist the Violet and Green and route them away from the other wiring. Make sure only the White or only the pickup connector is in use.
Timing reads wrong or drifts compared with before Wrong Green Loop setting, or a digital or dial-back timing light Cut and seal the loop for MSD Billet, Ford or Chrysler pickups. Leave it intact for GM HEI, points, amplifiers and the MSD crank trigger. Recheck with a conventional light.
Tachometer is dead or drops to zero when accelerating Tach still on coil −, a GM inline filter, or a tach that needs an adapter Move the tach trigger wire to the Tach output. Bypass any GM inline filter. If it still fails, use a PN 8910 with a White wire trigger or a PN 8920 with the magnetic pickup.
Fuel-injected import cranks but will not start after the install Shared trigger signal too weak for the fuel injection system Install a PN 8910 Tach Adapter. If that doesn't fix it, use the PN 8910-EIS. Toyotas and Ford Probes need the 8910-EIS.
2 Step or retard does nothing No 12 V on the Blue or Pink, or testing below 2,000 rpm Measure 12 V on the Blue or Pink with the switch on. The retard only works above 2,000 rpm, and a 2 Step dial setting below 2,000 defaults to 2,000 rpm.
Hard starting on an engine with locked-out timing Start retard not enabled Set the cylinder select dial to the matching position from 4 to 7. Timing then retards 20° until the engine passes 800 rpm.
5-pin HEI hesitates or stalls on deceleration A known issue with some 5-pin modules Contact MSD technical support for the bolt-in diode made for this problem.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)


How do you wire an MSD Digital 6 Plus?
You connect four groups of wires. The Heavy red and Heavy black go straight to the battery. The small Red goes to switched 12 V. The Orange and Black are the only wires on coil + and coil −. One trigger goes to the trigger source: either the White (points, an amplifier or an MSD control) or the Violet · Green magnetic pickup connector, never both. Then set the cylinder select dial and the Green Loop, and reset the ignition timing.

What are the different wire colors in an MSD distributor?
An MSD magnetic pickup distributor has a two-wire pickup that plugs into the ignition's Violet · Green connector. Violet is positive and green is negative. The MSD 8360 distributor works differently: its red wire goes to switched 12 V together with the ignition's Red, and its orange wire triggers the ignition through the MSD White. For other MSD distributors, check the instructions that came with the distributor.

How do I hook up an MSD ignition to my car's existing system?
Find the diagram for your ignition type, then use the car's original wiring as your guide. On most points, amplifier and import setups, you take the original wires off the coil. The original coil negative wire goes to the MSD White, and the original coil positive wire goes to the MSD Red. The Orange and Black then go to the coil. Plug-in harnesses for GM coils (PN 8876, PN 8877) and Ford TFI (PN 8874) let you do it without cutting any wires.

What is the best timing light to use with an MSD ignition system?
Use a conventional timing light without digital processing or a dial-back feature. Digital and dial-back lights can misread the MSD's multiple sparks and show the wrong timing. With a White wire trigger, you can also set static timing by watching the LED, which flashes once for each trigger signal. After the install, always check and reset base and total timing to your engine's specification.

Does an MSD ignition need a ballast resistor?
No. If your vehicle has a ballast resistor in line with the coil wiring, you should bypass it. The MSD gets its power directly from the battery through the heavy leads and sends its own high-voltage output to the coil. The one exception is a current-triggered factory tach used with the White wire trigger. In that case you can wire in a Chrysler dual ballast resistor (1973 to 1976 type) just to drive the tach.

Should I cut the Green Loop?
It depends on your trigger. Cut and seal the Green Loop if you use an MSD Billet distributor or the magnetic pickup of a Ford or Chrysler distributor. Leave it intact for GM HEI, the MSD crank trigger, points and factory electronic amplifiers. The loop adjusts the timing for different pickup styles, so it has no effect when you trigger with the White wire. Either way, check total timing afterward.

Can I use my stock ignition coil?
Yes. The Digital 6 Plus works with most stock coils and with aftermarket coils designed to replace them. For street and mild racing, MSD Blaster coils are a good match. For extended high rpm use, the Blaster HVC, PN 8252, is recommended. Whatever coil you use, the Orange and Black must be the only wires on its terminals.

Will it work on a 4 or 6-cylinder engine?
Yes. The unit ships programmed for 8 cylinders, and you change that with the cylinder select dial. Position 0 is 4-cylinder, 1 is 6-cylinder, 2 is 8-cylinder and 3 is 6-cylinder odd-fire. Positions 4 to 7 are the same counts with a 20° start retard added. Do not leave the dial at 8 or 9, because those positions stop the engine from running.

Can I run the MSD without an alternator?
Yes, but plan the battery carefully. The unit draws about 0.7 A for every 1,000 rpm. Allow at least 15 amp-hours for every half hour of running, and more if you crank with the same battery or run an electric fuel or water pump. It delivers full output from 9 to 18 V, so start each run with the battery fully charged.

What voltage range does the Digital 6 Plus accept?
It runs on any negative-ground 12 V system with a distributor, and it delivers full output from 9 to 18 V. It keeps running down to about 6 V, works with 16 V batteries and can handle a momentary 24 V during a jump start. It shuts itself down above 27 V and has reverse polarity protection. It resumes normal operation once the problem is corrected.

Can I shorten or lengthen the MSD wires?
Yes. You can shorten any of the wires as long as you use quality connectors or solder the joints. To lengthen them, use one gauge size heavier than the original: 10 gauge for the heavy power leads and 16 gauge for the other wires. Solder and seal every joint so it resists vibration and corrosion. If you ever send the unit in for service, leave the wires at their installed length.

What spark plug wires and plug gap should I use?
Use helically wound plug wires. Solid core wires create interference that disrupts the MSD and cannot be used. As a starting point for plug gap, use 0.050" to 0.060" up to 10.5:1 compression, 0.040" to 0.050" from 10.5:1 to 13.0:1, and 0.035" to 0.045" above 13.0:1. Follow your engine builder's plug recommendation, then adjust the gap in 0.005" steps while you test.

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